The Art of Muzzleloader Shooting
A 12-Gauge Black Powder Shotgun
Muzzleloaders have always fascinated me, partly because I take a general interest in history
of technology and partly because I admire the gunsmiths of old for their inventiveness and
superb workmanship, considering the materials and tools they had at disposal.
I practice target shooting with muzzleloaders at our local shooting club. Although I shoot modern guns as well, I particularly like the old-fashioned ones. In our muzzleloader group, we shoot percussion pistols, flintlock pistols, and cap-and-ball revolvers over a distance of 25 m. The most common calibers used for target shooting are .36/.38 and .44/.45.
The following photos show three of my black-powder target pistols. They are fairly exact reproductions of percussion pistols from the first half of the nineteenth century. Only the calibers have been changed to those common today.
The first one is a typical British-style sporting pistol. The flat-bottomed grip is characteristic for pistols made by gunsmith William Parker of London. The pistol has a match-grade barrel with fixed sights, and it shoots very well.
.45 Cal Percussion Pistol "London"
The next one is based upon a French sporting pistol ("Le Page à Moutier"). This gun is a beauty. The quality of material and workmanship is superb (polished, laser-inspected barrel bore). The pistol is well-balanced and a pleasure to shoot.
.44 Cal Percussion Pistol "Le Page à Moutier"
The third one belongs to the group of so-called underhammer pistols. These have their ignition system under the barrel, usually in front of the trigger guard. The gun shown here, based on a design by US gunsmith Michael Carleton, does not have a conventional hammer but a striking block which moves straight and parallel to the barrel axis. Another interesting detail is the trigger guard which is made in the form of a flat spring. It works as the main spring pushing the striker forward as soon as the trigger is pulled. Underhammer pistols are quite popular among target shooters.
.36 Cal Underhammer Target Pistol
Muzzleloaders require a sophisticated loading technique which comprises more than just
stuffing powder and ball into a barrel. Gunsmiths and marksmen of the muzzleloader era
(ending around 1870) were resourceful people, and they achieved a precision comparable
to modern guns.
Particularly beginners among muzzleloader shooters make many mistakes and may get frustrated soon because they experience difficulties or they do not achieve the precision they hoped for. Therefore, I am going to describe the technology and handling of muzzleloaders in some detail. My main focus is on target shooting with percussion pistols and round balls. The handling of rifles is principally the same (apart from the fact that they are fired from the shoulder). The information given here is a compilation of knowledge published elsewhere, the advice of experienced fellow shooters, and results obtained by own experiments.
Before going into detail, a short warning: muzzleloaders are as deadly as modern guns! A .440 cal round ball fired from a percussion pistol has a typical muzzle velocity of 250 m/s (approx. 820 fps), depending on the powder charge. This translates into a muzzle energy of 259 J and comes close to a modern .380 ACP or .38 Special projectile. A .535 cal round ball with the same muzzle velocity has a muzzle energy of 466 J which is not far from a .45 ACP bullet. Handle your muzzleloader with the same care as you would any other firearm!
General Design and Ignition Systems
The rear end of a muzzleloader barrel is internally threaded and plugged by a roughly caliber-sized screw, the breech plug. To ignite the powder charge which lies in front of the breech plug, the gun is fitted with a narrow channel drilled through the sidewall of the barrel at the front end of the breech plug (traditional design). There is also a modern design (inline muzzleloader) where the ignition channel is drilled longitudinally through the breech plug. During the history of muzzleloaders, gunsmiths developed several devices to ignite the powder charge through the ignition channel (in chronological order):
• Flintlock (including a few similar precursors)
• Caplock (percussion lock)
Ignition by a fuse inserted into the ignition channel, sometimes still found with salute cannons, is not practical for target shooting or hunting. The vast majority of black powder shooters of today use guns equipped with caplocks or flintlocks although guns with wheellocks and matchlocks are found occasionally. Matchlock, wheellock, and flintlock share a common feature, the flash pan. The latter is a small metal pan attached to the lock plate and touching the side of the barrel slightly below the opening of the ignition channel which is called "vent" or "touch hole" in this case. The flash pan contains a small quantity of fine-grained black powder (priming powder) which is either ignited by a burning slow match which gets pushed into the pan when pulling the trigger (matchlock) or by a shower of hot sparks generated by a friction mechanism (wheellock, flintlock) at the instant of firing the gun. The fireball of the deflagrating priming powder ignites the main charge through the touch hole. The caplock does not have a flash pan. On the outside of the barrel, the ignition channel terminates in a replaceable screw-in nipple. The nipple itself has a narrow channel drilled through it which serves as an extension of the ignition channel. The nipple holds a percussion cap, a small copper cap containing an impact-sensitive explosive. At the instant of firing, a hammer strikes the percussion cap and ignites the explosive which sends a jet of flame down the ignition channel and into the powder charge.
The classical muzzleloader projectile is the round ball cast from pure lead. Later came non-spherical, elongated projectiles comprising a cylindrical body (with circumferential grooves holding a lubricant), a flat or hollow base, and a round or conical tip. These were developed because the round ball, although efficient and precise at short or medium distance, loses speed rapidly during its flight and shows poor long-range performance. The reason for this is the relatively low mass of a round ball for a given caliber. An elongated projectile of the same caliber shows a similar air drag but is heavier, has therefore a higher inertia, and is not decelerated by air drag as fast as a round ball. Therefore, such a projectile retains a higher percentage of its initial kinetic energy (muzzle energy) over a given distance than a round ball.
Most percussion target pistols have rifled barrels and shoot patched round balls (see further below). Rifled barrels have helical grooves with a depth of approx. 0.1-0.4 mm cut or forged into their bore. The unaffected, elevated areas of the bore remaining between the grooves are called lands. The soft lead projectile engages the rifling.* Thus, when the gun is fired, the projectile is forced to rotate about the barrel axis as it is pushed toward the muzzle by the pressure of the powder gases. After leaving the barrel, the projectile keeps rotating due to its moment of inertia. The fast rotation prevents the longitudinal axis of the projectile from changing its spatial orientation and thus results in a more stable trajectory (gyroscopic stabilization). Smoothbore guns (pistols, muskets) firing round balls are inherently less accurate than guns with rifled barrels but are still usable at relatively short distances. Non-spherical projectiles (Minié balls, etc.) definitely require rifled barrels. Fired from a smoothbore gun, such a projectile would start yawing or tumbling shortly after exiting the muzzle, and the resulting trajectory would be unpredictable. This is mainly due to forces exerted on the projectile by the powder gases escaping the muzzle immediately behind it and by the surrounding air (air drag). The projectile may even strike with its broad side. Most rifled muzzleloader barrels have 3-12 grooves. Technically, the rifling of a barrel is an internal screw thread with multiple starts. The schematic cross-section of a rifled barrel with four grooves is shown below.
*The projectile has to undergo a controlled plastic deformation along its circumference so as to interlock with the rifling of the barrel. To facilitate this, muzzleloader projectiles are usually cast from pure lead or a soft lead alloy. Depending on its design, the shaping of the projectile either happens during the loading process or at the instant of firing the gun. Putting aside the round ball (see farther below), there are two main categories of non-spherical projectiles, those matching the groove diameter of the barrel and those matching the bore diameter. In the first case, the projectile gets swaged into the rifling as it is pushed down the bore. In addition to their original purpose, the lubrication grooves in the lateral surface of the projectile reduce the contact area and thus ease the shaping process since the elevated parts (bands) are subjected to a higher local pressure during loading. The R.E.A.L bullet (R.E.A.L. = Rifling Engraved At Loading) is a typical example of such a projectile. In the second case there is no deformation during the loading process since the sub-caliber projectile slides over the lands of the barrel. Thus, much less force is required for loading the gun. These projectiles are designed to expand radially when exposed to the rapidly rising pressure of the powder gases at the instant of firing and thus engage the rifling and ensure a sufficient gas seal. The high gas pressure mainly results from the inertia of the projectile which counteracts a rapid expansion of the powder gases. One example of a sub-caliber projectile is the compression type bullet (Lorenz bullet). This projectile has very deep lubrication grooves which make it look like a stack of flat truncated cones. As soon as its flat base gets hit by the powder gases, the projectile gets compressed along its longitudinal axis. The axial compression, assisted by the special geometry, forces the bullet to expand in radial direction and fill the grooves of the barrel. Another example is the expansion type bullet (Minié ball) which has a cavity at its base. As soon as the pressurized powder gases enter this cavity, the rear part of the soft projectile inflates until it engages the rifling and seals the bore.
Cross Section of a Rifled Barrel with Four Grooves
The caliber of a barrel is usually measured in millimeters or in inches (1 in = 25.4 mm).* Two diameters, bore diameter (land diameter) and groove diameter, characterize a rifled barrel. The groove diameter is the sum of the bore diameter and twice the groove depth. Unfortunately, the nominal caliber stamped on a barrel is often not exactly identical with either of both diameters. Therefore, we have to rely on the gunmaker's recommendation or on our own experiments when choosing the projectile with the optimum size.
*There is further the old gauge system which characterizes the caliber of a barrel by the number of bore-sized round balls which can be cast from one pound (0.4536 kg) of lead. Accordingly, the weight of a round ball for an n-gauge gun is the nth fraction of a pound. A round ball for a 12-gauge gun, for example, weighs 1/12 pound (approx. 583 grains). Historically used for both smoothbores and rifles, the system still finds application for shotguns.
Another important characteristic of a rifled barrel is the twist rate. The
latter is defined as the number of revolutions the projectile performs about the
barrel axis as it travels a certain distance. Thus, the twist rate is comparable
to the lead of a screw thread. The twist rate is usually measured in revolutions
per inch. A twist rate of 1 in 48" or 1:48", for example, means the
ball will complete one forty-eighth of a revolution as it travels 1 inch or one
revolution as it travels a distance of 48 inches. The greater the number of
revolutions per inch, the faster the projectile will rotate at a given muzzle
velocity ("fast twist"). Accordingly, a small number of revolutions per inch
translates into a lower rotational speed ("slow twist").
According to the above definition, the relationship between muzzle velocity, twist rate of the barrel, and rotational speed of a projectile upon exiting the muzzle is described by the following equation:
rotational speed = muzzle velocity * twist rate
According to this formula, a ball exiting a rifled barrel (twist rate = 1:48") with a muzzle velocity of 1000 feet per second (= 12000 inches per second) has a rotational speed of 250 revolutions per second (15000 rpm).
The speed of rotation required to stabilize a projectile in its flight depends on its shape. Due to their high degree of symmetry, round balls do not have to rotate very fast and thus a barrel with a slow twist is sufficient to achieve the desired precision. Barrels particularly designed to fire round balls have twist rates greater than 1:50" (up to approx. 1:100"). In contrast to a round ball, a non-spherical projectile needs a higher speed of rotation to achieve a stable and reproducible trajectory. When fired from a barrel with a slow twist, such a projectile will start tumbling gradually during its flight. As a result, the long-range precision will be unsatisfactory. Small-caliber projectiles with a high aspect ratio (length of projectile divided by caliber) require the highest speed of rotation and, accordingly, the fastest twist. Most muzzleloader barrels designed for non-spherical projectiles have twist rates between 1:15" and 1:50". A twist rate of 1:48" is often found with replicas of black powder rifles supplied by the industry. This "universal" twist rate is considered suitable for both round balls and non-spherical projectiles with a moderate aspect ratio. Long projectiles definitely require a faster twist. Since the speed of rotation varies in proportion with the velocity of the projectile, particularly long projectiles should not be fired with very light powder charges. Handgun barrels tend to have a faster twist (mostly between 1:15" and 1:60") than barrels of long rifles in order to achieve the required speed of rotation in spite of the lower muzzle velocity.
First of all, historic muzzleloaders and their replicas are meant to be loaded with black powder or approved substitutes. For this reason, "Black Powder Only" is usually stamped on the barrels of muzzleloader replicas. Of course, this stamp is not found on original guns manufactured before the advent of smokeless powder. Unless expressively stated otherwise, a muzzleloader barrel is NOT designed to handle the much higher peak pressure developed by smokeless powder. Using the latter (even small quantities) in a muzzleloader may therefore result in a barrel burst with potentially disastrous consequences.*
*Further, do not use powder recovered from firecrackers or other pyrotechnic articles. What looks like black powder may actually be something else. Some pyrotechnic compositions, for example flash powder, detonate under confinement and would destroy any gun barrel. Besides, black powder contained in crackers is often of inferior quality and not suitable for sport shooting or hunting.
Black powder is a granulated mixture of approx. 75% potassium nitrate (oxidizer),
15% charcoal (fuel), and 10% sulfur (fuel). It is a hazardous material and should
be handled with GREAT care. In contrast to smokeless powder, which burns
comparatively slowly in the open air, industrially made black powder burns very
rapidly, making a dull thudding sound. Even without containment, a pile of black
powder may explode upon ignition when its mass exceeds about 1 kg (self-confinement).
Moreover, black powder is particularly dangerous because it is easily ignited by
sparks (otherwise, a flintlock wouldn't work). As a precaution, never pour black
powder down the barrel of your gun directly from a powder flask. This might result
in the explosion of the latter if there still is a smoldering spark from a
preceding shot in the barrel. Only use pre-measured charges stored in sealed
tubes (plastic, glass, or metal) to load your gun.
Quality and quantity of the powder charge depend on barrel length and caliber of the gun (pistol, rifle, smoothbore musket, shotgun). Short barrels require a fast-burning powder. Otherwise, the ball will leave the barrel before the powder can build up the maximum gas pressure. A slow-burning powder in a handgun will produce an impressive muzzle flash, but it will not accelerate the projectile to the desired muzzle velocity because a substantial part of the combustion happens outside the barrel. In rifles, muskets, and shotguns, the powder has more time to develop the maximum gas pressure due to the greater barrel length. Here, a powder with a slower burning rate may be the better choice. Using a heavy charge of fast-burning pistol powder in a long gun may result in a premature and much higher pressure peak which puts unnecessary stress on the barrel. Accelerating a projectile too rapidly in a rifled barrel will further lead to a higher than normal torque acting on the projectile since the latter is not only subjected to linear acceleration but also to a proportion of angular acceleration. This might cause the projectile to disengage from the rifling which results in lower precision. Apart from the caliber, the weight of the projectile (= inertia) has to be considered when choosing the suitable powder grade for a rifle or musket. For example, a .50 caliber rifle may very well tolerate a moderate charge of pistol powder in combination with a round ball whereas a much heavier long projectile of the same caliber most certainly requires rifle powder. In any case, one should begin with smaller charges when experimenting with pistol powder in long guns.
The following table shows the most common types of black powder (European manufacturers) used for target shooting and hunting, their respective particle size range, and their main application. The burning rate is approximately proportional to the specific surface area of the powder grains (measured in squaremeters per gram) and thus decreases with increasing grain size of the powder.
|Powder Grade||Grain Size Range [mm]*||Main Usage|
|Swiss Powder #1||0.25 - 0.50||Small-Caliber Handguns|
|Swiss Powder #2||0.50 - 0.80||Rifles, Handguns|
|FFFFG (4FG)||0.15 - 0.425||Priming Powder (Flintlocks), Small-Caliber Handguns|
|FFFG (3FG)||0.30 - 0.85||Handguns, Small- or Medium-Caliber Rifles|
|FFG (2FG)||0.60 - 1.18||Large-Caliber Rifles, Muskets, and Shotguns|
|FG||1.18 - 1.70||Very Large Caliber Rifles or Shotguns|
|PPPP (4P)||0.15 - 0.42||same as FFFFG|
|PPP (3P)||0.35 - 0.80||same as FFFG|
|PP (2P)||0.67 - 1.12||same as FFG|
|P||0.85 - 1.25||same as FG|
Table of Black Powder Grades (Grain size ranges may vary slightly between different manufacturers.)
*Common black powder grades do not have a single grain size but a more or less broad grain size distribution. This is due to the manufacturing process where the crude powder obtained by breaking the presscake gets separated according to grain size classes by passing it through a cascade of sieves with decreasing mesh size. Making a powder with a single grain size would be totally uneconomical due to a very low yield. When black powder is exposed to vibrations, for example during transport, the proportion of finer grains tends to accumulate at the bottom of the container. Dust formed by abrasion tends to settle at the bottom as well. Therefore, the powder should be homogenized by gently shaking or tumbling it before use in order to ensure constant burning characteristics. A fellow shooter told me that the unexpectedly heavy recoil of his saluting gun (a kind of large-caliber blunderbuss) almost knocked him off his feet after he had loaded it with the "dusty looking" powder from the bottom of an old container.
There is a traditional rule to calculate the weight of a black powder charge. For handguns, multiply the caliber (measured in inches) by fifty, and you have the recommended weight of the charge measured in grains (7000 grains = 1 pound, 1 grain = 0.0648 g). The powder charge for a .44 cal pistol, for example, is 22 grains. For long guns, multiply the caliber by hundred. According to this rule, a .50 cal rifle would require a charge of 50 grains. This is only a rule of thumb, and the powder weight may vary within certain limits, according to the intended purpose. For target shooting, a slightly smaller charge may be preferred to improve precision and reduce recoil. I use 20 grains of 3FG or PPP powder with my .44/.45 cal pistols or 11 grains of Swiss Powder #1* with my .36 cal pistols. Hunting charges are usually bigger (up to 100%) in order to increase penetration power and ensure a quick kill.
*Swiss Powder #1 has a higher burning rate than 3FG powder and allows for a reduced dosage. I find it particularly useful in small-caliber target pistols or in pistols with very short barrels (derringers, etc.). Besides, I occasionally shoot .357 Magnum cartridges handloaded with Swiss Powder #1 (powder charge: 21 grains Swiss Powder #1, bullet: H&N .357 HPHS 127 grains, OAL: 40.5 mm, taper crimp).
European powder manufacturers recommend a charge of 100 mg black powder per mm
caliber (+ max. 400 mg) in handguns and 250 mg powder per mm caliber (+ max. 600
mg) in long guns for target shooting. If in doubt, follow the recommendations of
the gun manufacturer or the advice of experienced shooters.
I do not quite agree with the above-mentioned rules since the weight of a round ball varies in proportion with the third power of its diameter. Using a charge weight directly proportional to the ball diameter will therefore result in oversized charges for small-caliber guns and undersized charges for large calibers. In the days of Daniel Boone, hunters used to divide the ball weight by two to get the weight of the powder charge for their long guns. Varying the powder weight in direct proportion with the weight of the projectile seems logical at first glance. The powder weight for a .45 cal round ball, for example, would be 60 grains which is ok. On the other hand, this method would lead to absurdly heavy charges for very large calibers. A .75 cal round ball (a caliber not uncommon for old big-game rifles and smoothbore muskets), for example, has a weight of approx. 630 grains (density of lead = 11.314 g/cm3) and would require 315 grains of black powder. Definitely not recommended!
I find it more reasonable to vary the weight of the powder charge in proportion with the cross-sectional area of the barrel bore. For this purpose, I multiply the square of the caliber (measured in inches) by a conversion factor, f, to get the weight of the powder charge measured in grains:
powder weight = f x caliber 2
The factor f determines the length of the powder column in the barrel. For handguns and patched round balls, f = 90...180 gives reasonable results. This range more or less covers everything between target loads and hunting loads (I set f at 100 for target shooting). The following table, which is meant as a suggestion, shows the calculated powder weights (rounded) for the most common calibers. For long guns, the calculated values can be doubled.
|Caliber [Inches]||Powder Weight [Grains]|
Some guns, particularly large-caliber smoothbores, have rather thin-walled
barrels and should be loaded with powder charges near the lower limit of the
weight range thus calculated.
IN ANY CASE, THE MAXIMUM CHARGE WEIGHT SPECIFIED BY THE GUN MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE OBSERVED.*
Another suggested formula and more detailed information about the internal ballistics of muzzleloaders is here.
*Some people say it is virtually impossible to destroy a barrel by overloading it with black powder. A well-made barrel certainly has a considerable safety margin and might tolerate a much bigger charge than specified. However, a barrel burst is a matter of probability. The latter is usually very small, but it is greater than zero, and there is no doubt that the chance of a burst increases with increasing charge weight. Every material scientist knows that under excessive mechanical load, a microscopic weak spot in a solid material may turn into a hairline crack which propagates gradually with every following stress peak until finally catastrophic failure occurs. Thus, a barrel surviving a hundred thousand shots with normal powder charges may unexpectedly explode after only several hundred or thousand shots when overloaded. Further, you may run into a liability problem if a bystander gets hurt by fragments of an exploding barrel as a result of an overcharged gun. Do not use more powder than required for the intended purpose. Better safe than sorry.
There are unexperienced shooters who take an oversized round ball (about the groove diameter) and hammer it down the barrel. This might be ok for the first shot when the barrel is still clean. With the second shot, however, the difficulties begin. Now, the bore surface is coated with soot and ash (black powder produces a lot of that), and there is MUCH more friction than before. The force necessary to push the ball down the barrel increases from shot to shot as the fouling of the barrel with powder residues and abraded lead increases. Moreover, the relatively soft lead ball gets deformed by such a rough handling. Needless to say that accurate shots can not be achieved in this way.
The classical solution to this problem is the patched round ball.* A ball to be used with a patch needs to have a diameter which is slightly (!) smaller than the bore diameter of the barrel. The optimum ball size for a gun is usually specified by the manufacturer. If no information is available, it has to be found by experiment. For example, if you have a .44 caliber gun, get a series of round balls with finely staged diameters, e. g., .430", .435", .440", .445", and .450" (commercially available sizes) and find the biggest ball within this series which rolls down the tilted barrel bore without getting stuck (make sure to choose balls without deformations). This is the size we are going to use tentatively.
*As mentioned farther above, there are other, non-spherical types of projectiles. These are mostly fired from rifles, hunting pistols, and sometimes in cap-and-ball revolvers and do not require a patch. They are rarely used in traditional-style target pistols or duelling pistols. Therefore, I will not go into the details here.
The patch is a round or square-shaped piece of tear-resistant, tightly woven cotton
fabric which is placed across the muzzle before putting the ball on top of it and
ramming both down the barrel. In this way, the patch envelopes the rear half of the
ball and forms a barrier between the surfaces of ball and barrel bore. The patch
has four functions: it wipes the bore clean during loading, it prevents barrel
leading (no lead-to-steel contact), it works as a gas seal (although an imperfect one)
by filling the grooves, and it engages the rifling and thus transfers the torque
which sets the ball into rotation. Immediately after exiting the muzzle, the patch
opens up like a parachute and separates from the ball. Technically, the patched round
ball can be considered as a primitive form of the saboted bullet.
The diameter of the patch is usually about 2.5 times the caliber. Like the ball size, the optimum patch thickness is specified by the gun manufacturer in most cases. As a rule of thumb, the thickness of the patch should not be smaller than the depth of the grooves in order to provide a satisfactory gas seal.
groove depth = (groove diameter − bore diameter) / 2
To achieve maximum precision, it may be necessary to experiment with slightly different combinations of ball size and patch thickness. In any case, the fit of the patched ball in the barrel has to be reasonably tight. When we decrease the ball size, we have to increase the patch thickness accordingly and vice versa. If the fit is too loose, the ball may wobble about the barrel axis and/or disengage from the rifling during the shot, and precision will suffer. Further, the muzzle velocity will be reduced due to pressure loss. If the fit is too tight, however, the patch may rupture when pushing the ball into the muzzle. Patches may also get damaged when the crown, the front end of the rifling, has sharp edges. To avoid this, the crown is usually provided with a conical recess.*
* The crown is an important part of any rifled firearm and should be machined as precisely as possible. Any asymmetry of the crown which may be caused by poor manufacturing quality, improper tools, or by repeated use of a steel ramrod without rod guide (abrasion!) will influence the point of impact and precision of the gun.
Learning the characteristics of a new gun and finding the best ball/patch combination for
it may require some time. During this phase, patches should be inspected after each shooting
series (see below). They are usually found a few meters down range. If there are holes or
tears in the patch, try a slightly smaller ball.
It should not go unnoticed that smoothbores, too, benefit from patched round balls. Precision is much better than with the traditionally used loose balls which were often secured with a wad to prevent them from rolling out of the barrel.
The patch has to be impregnated with a suitable lubricant in order to clean the barrel bore and reduce friction during the loading process. Do not use machine oil or grease for this purpose because it will not soften and dissolve black powder residues satisfactorily. The latter are predominantly composed of water-soluble potassium salts (carbonate, sulfate, thiosulfate, sulfide, etc.). Therefore, the lubricant should contain much water. There are a number of patch lubricants based on oil-in-water emulsions on the market. They are overpriced in my opinion. I have obtained very good results with a formulation based on oil soap. The latter is a soap made by saponifying vegetable oil with aqueous potash lye. My own method for making oil soap is shown here. Oil soap is also commercially available (often containing much water). You can dilute the soap to the desired consistency with deionized water if necessary. Do not use hair shampoo, shower gel, dishwashing detergents, or similar products as patch lubricant. These formulations may lubricate well but they often contain sodium chloride (table salt) as a thickener to make the product look more concentrated than it is. Salt is highly corrosive to carbon steel. Other products contain sulfates which are corrosive as well. Solid hand soap, too, may contain salt residues from the manufacturing process. Check the list of ingredients for chlorides and sulfates before using a product (phosphates are usually ok). Before using a commercial soap or other detergent with unknown composition, dissolve 10-20% of it in deionized water, immerse a piece of carbon steel in the solution, and wait a couple of hours or days. If the steel sample shows rust stains or signs of pitting afterwards, don't use the product. An improved corrosion test is described here.
After dipping the patch, excessive lubricant should be removed with a sponge, cloth, paper tissue, or something similar. Otherwise, the powder will absorb too much moisture and burn slower. I usually dip all my patches in the lubricant at the beginning of a shooting session and put them on a cotton rag or a sheet of household tissue which absorbs excessive lubricant. Do not let the patches get too dry, however. In such a case, excessive force would be required to load the barrel.* If you do it right, the system will be self-cleaning, and you can fire an almost unlimited number of shots in a row without swabbing the barrel in between. If you intend to carry the loaded gun for some time without shooting it, e. g., during a hunt, you may consider putting a round, caliber-sized cardboard or felt disk on top of the powder charge before loading patch and ball. This will keep the patch lubricant from migrating into the powder charge for a while. Some people put a layer of semolina, ground coffee, or a similar material on top of the powder charge to protect it from the patch lubricant. This may also slightly increase the muzzle velocity by reducing the portion of blow-by gas.
*Rifles may require really wet patches because the latter have to wipe a longer length of barrel bore and pick up more dirt. It may even be useful to choose a thicker patch in combination with a slightly smaller ball because a thicker patch can hold more lubricant. If this does not help, the barrel should be swabbed with a moistened cleaning patch between shots.
The following six pictures illustrate the first steps of the loading procedure with a patched round ball. The muzzle shown here belongs to a .45 cal Great Plains Rifle:
Muzzle with Crown
Muzzle with Powder Funnel Inserted*
Muzzle with Patch
Patch and Ball on Top of Muzzle
Patch and Ball Partially Inserted into Muzzle
Patch and Ball Inside the Muzzle
*Many target shooters (including myself) prefer to use a powder funnel with a long tube reaching almost down to the breech plug of the barrel. This prevents the powder from adhering to the bore surface and mixing with powder residues from the preceding shot.
I use my thumb to press patch and ball as far into the crown as I can (Picture 5). If the patch is not properly centered, I can pull it out again and correct its position. Next, I use a rubber hammer to drive the ball completely into the muzzle.* The rubber is soft enough to avoid deformation of the lead ball. When the ball sits flush with the front of the muzzle (Picture 6), I take a starter (a very short ramrod) and push the ball a few centimeters farther into the barrel. After that, I take the long ramrod and push the ball all the way down the bore until it is firmly seated against the powder charge. One must not leave an air gap between ball and powder charge. This might result in irregular burning of the powder and a very high peak pressure. Barrel bulges and even bursts caused by a "short-started" ball have been reported. A proposed explanation is here.
*If you can push patch and ball all the way into the muzzle with your thumb alone, the fit is probably not tight enough and the ball will not engage the rifling sufficiently. Try a slightly bigger ball or a thicker patch.
On the other hand, forcibly hammering the ball against the powder charge brings no advantages but crushes the powder grains (resulting in different burning characteristics) and deforms the ball. If the ramrod is equipped with a knob- or ball-shaped handle, one can achieve a constant seating depth by sliding a suitable spacer over the ramrod. I have modified a ramrod by inserting a metal tube and a stack of washers between handle and rod guide. By adding or removing washers, I can make sure the ball touches the powder charge without compressing it too much.
Metal ramrods, particularly those made of steel, should be equipped with a rod guide (a plastic or soft-metal sleeve) to protect the muzzle from abrasion. The tip of a ramrod is often made of brass or aluminium. The front side of the ramrod tip should have a concave or conical depression to avoid any flattening of the ball. For wooden ramrods, I make tips of .357 Magnum or .38 Special cartridge cases by drilling a conical recess into the base (see picture). The rim of these cases has a diameter of approx. 11 mm which is ideal for .44 or .45 cal barrels. Some guns are equipped with a removable ramrod attached to the barrel. If a separate ramrod is used, it should have a ball- or knob-shaped handle because this facilitates loading.
Home-Made Ramrod Tip
The following photo illustrates how a cotton patch (powder side) recovered after shooting looks if everything has been done right. It is virtually intact, without holes or tears. The brownish tint in the middle region results from the intense heat the fabric has been exposed to for a few milliseconds. The patch is not charred because it was impregnated with the lubricant (water has a high heat of evaporation and thus cools the patch). The grayish discoloration in the outer area mainly results from powder residues the patch wiped off from the bore surface during loading.
One should make a habit of inspecting patches after shooting since a damaged patch may not
be able to guide the ball through the barrel with sufficient precision. I once
experienced a much greater scatter of hits after replacing my standard charge of
20 grains 3FG powder with 16 grains of the very fast-burning Swiss Powder #1 in
my .45 cal caplock pistol. When I examined the spent patches after the shooting
session, I found most of them torn to pieces. Obviously, the patches were not
able to withstand the higher peak pressure.
During and after loading the barrel, point the gun in a safe direction at all times. The next thing to do is pulling the hammer (cock) of the gun back until the first click is heard (half-cock position). In this position, the trigger is locked, and the gun cannot go off accidentally (in theory at least). Now you can put a percussion cap on the nipple. When you are ready to shoot, point the gun towards the target, pull the hammer back until the second click is heard (full-cock position), take aim carefully, and slowly (!) pull the trigger until the gun fires. If, for some reason, you change your mind and decide to shoot later, remove the percussion cap first, pull the trigger while holding the hammer back with your thumb, and lower the hammer carefully until it rests on the nipple. Don't forget, the barrel is still loaded!
Hammer in Half-Cock Position
Hammer in Full-Cock Position
The next photo shows a sample of shooting results I obtained with a .45 cal duelling pistol. There are two groups of hits on the target. The first one (green) was obtained by aiming at the center, the second one (cyan) by aiming at the lower edge of the black area (six o'clock position). The pistol was shot one-handed over a distance of 25 m (no benchrest). The diameter of the target (black area) is 20 cm (8 in). I am not even a particularly good shooter. Some of my fellow shooters would hit a tennis ball under these conditions. This should be proof enough that muzzleloaders are accurate weapons if properly loaded. Actually, I obtain about the same dispersion with my muzzleloader pistols as with my S&W 686 revolver.
Well, this is how to shoot a percussion gun with round balls. As you can see, it
is a time-consuming procedure requiring care and patience. Muzzleloader shooting
is definitely nothing for Rambo-type people who want action. It is rather a
relaxing, meditative sport like archery. Since there are so many variables
involved, there is much room for experiments.
Cleaning the gun after a shooting session:
After returning from the shooting range, you should clean the gun as soon as possible since black powder residues are corrosive to steel. The only barrel cleaner that really works here is water. Unfortunately, water (tap water as well as distilled or deionized water) is also corrosive to carbon steel. Every time you pour water down a barrel, a thin rust film builds up quickly which gets removed afterwards when swabbing the barrel (a brownish discoloration of the cleaning patch indicates rust). Repeat this hundreds of times, and you will observe a measurable loss of material. Therefore, adding some kind of corrosion inhibitor to the water is highly recommended. To reduce corrosive wear during cleaning, I add a little ammonia solution to the water (ammonia is contained in some household cleaners which can be used if pure ammonia solution is not available). The following photos demonstrate how ammonia can delay rust formation. I exposed two identical pieces of carbon steel to tap water at room temperature for five hours. The left beaker shows how ordinary tap water corrodes steel. The tap water in the right beaker contains 0.025% ammonia. Apart from a few tiny spots, the steel sample is still rust-free:
The concentration of ammonia in the cleaning solution required to stop corrosion
may vary, depending on the water quality. To clean the barrel, I remove it from
the stock, unscrew the nipple, and immerse barrel and nipple in this diluted
ammonia solution for approx. 5 minutes. I scrub the bore with a nylon bore brush
and the outside of barrel and nipple with an old toothbrush to remove adhering
powder residues. Then I take the barrel out of the bath, flush the bore a few times
with ammonia solution, and rub the outside of the barrel dry with a cotton rag.
Finally, I rinse bore and nipple with a solution of 0.05% sodium benzoate in
alcohol. Sodium benzoate is not only a widely used food preservative but also a very
efficient rust inhibitor. Finally, I apply a small quantity of oil soap to the
threads of the nipple before screwing it back in again.
Although I never apply any oil to the bore of my muzzleloader barrels, I haven't found even a trace of rust in them up to now. I only protect the outside of a barrel with a very thin film of penetrating oil after cleaning it. I further clean the hammer and the outside of the lock with diluted ammonia solution, check the internal parts of the lock for any dirt and apply a few drops of hypoid gear oil to the friction surfaces if necessary. Gear oil contains extreme-pressure and anti-wear additives which reduce friction and abrasive wear to a great extent. By the way, I also use gear oil to lubricate the friction surfaces (but not the bore!) of my SIG Sauer P-226 X-Five.
In addition, I clean the stock, particularly the area around the lock, with a damp cloth. From time to time, I rub the stock with teak oil in order to prevent the wood from getting dull.
Other sources of corrosion:
I have repeatedly heard and even read that shooters use their saliva to lubricate patches. The following picture shows two pieces of carbon steel I treated with a few drops of saliva and my soap-based lubricant, respectively. The left sample (saliva) showed severe corrosion after only two hours while the right sample (diluted oil soap) remained unaffected. Even after several weeks, the right sample did not show any signs of rust. It is often said that patched balls cause more barrel wear than Minie balls and other projectiles used without patch do. After my experiments, I tend to believe this is rather caused by corrosive wear which occurs when using unsuitable patch lubricants. Saliva contains inorganic salts, among them highly corrosive chlorides. Imagine what happens when you load your gun with a saliva-lubricated patch and ball. Within a short time, a thin, almost invisible rust layer will form on the bore surface. As soon as you shoot the gun, the rust will be blown out of the barrel. The same thing happens shot after shot. Guess how the inside of your barrel will look after, say, three thousand shots. The surface may actually look like polished but the dimensions will have changed as a result of material loss! Corrosion tests are very easy to perform, and they tell you a lot about the suitability of patch lubricants or cleaning agents.
When you treat your gun like recommended above, you can shoot it for decades. Some
of my guns are more than forty years old, and they look and shoot like new ones.
Percussion guns are usually very reliable but misfires do happen occasionally. The most frequent causes are obstructions in the ignition channel (dirt, grease, oil) and forgotten powder. The latter sounds absurd but it happens more often than one might be inclined to think. In most of these cases, the shooter has been distracted by people talking to him while he was loading the gun. The most important rule in case of a misfire: keep calm, don't fidget with your gun, and wait about one minute while still pointing the gun in a safe direction (in case it is a hangfire). Safety first! Next, unscrew the nipple and check if the ignition channel is free of powder residues or other debris. If necessary, clean it with a needle or a piece of wire. Inspect the barrel bore with a suitable lamp. A small LED flashlight is ok for handguns if you don't have a barrel lamp.* If you can see a ball in the barrel, put some powder into the nipple hole, screw the nipple back in, put a new cap on the nipple, and fire the gun. A small quantity of powder (I use about 3 grains of priming powder) is usually enough to drive the ball out of the barrel (and hurt people!). Check again if the barrel is free. Repeat the procedure if necessary. If you cannot remove the ball this way, there is a special tool, the ball puller. It looks like a wood screw with a very sharp tip and has to be attached to the ramrod. One has to hammer it into the lead ball and screw it tight before pulling the ball out of the barrel. I don't like it particularly since I found that often several attempts are necessary to pull the ball out. Besides, I am always afraid of damaging the rifling with it. Therefore, I prefer the "powder method". There are also tools based on compressed air or CO2, but I never tried one of these.
*It can be helpful to have a ramrod with depth markings indicating an empty barrel as well as a barrel loaded with a standard charge and ball.
Here is something about flintlocks.
And here is something about accurate powder measurement.
Will be continued...